More affordable and responsive to market demand, the US brands do not adopt the same position as European retailers.
Tommy Hilfiger, a luxury brand? The question is variable responses: the average person will say yes; an opinion not shared by Dior customers, Vuitton or Chanel. In fact, the definition of luxury in the United States is not the same as in Europe. Overseas, although there are differences in quality brands that one is tempted to identify as “luxury” (Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Tory Burch …), they have shared their positioning more in tune with the market that focused on creation. They are also much more affordable than their European cousins (a Ralph Lauren polo costs about 90 €, a Michael Kors bag 300 €) and assume that their production is partly outsourced to China or India. “They respond to the principle” value for money “(have the money), therefore, the logo is often put forward” analysis Elyette Roux, a professor at the Graduate School of Management of Aix-en-Provence.
Question look, there are also differences, for ready-to-wear, for example, the core value in Europe, it’s elegance. In the US, we favor the glamor and sexy, considered from the angle of “casual”, which is part of the democratic US. As for the shared love, Tommy H. and L. Ralph for “preppy” Elyette Roux easily explained: “This style reminiscent of the uniform school children is associated with the idea of WASP success. “It is significant that most US luxury brands have begun commercializing a product accessible and are then mounted range. originally manufactured Calvin Klein jeans and leggings, Ralph Lauren ties … In Europe, it’s the opposite: luxury homes started by providing the wardrobe of the aristocracy (high fashion) before tackling the wealthy bourgeoisie (the ready-to-wear) and to look into the case of the middle class (through the glasses, perfumes …).
These different approaches are now found on the websites. While European brands highlight their values, their history, their expertise and their identity, American talk product, look, celebrities and even offer under “sales” (sales) – word banned from European houses prefer in to provide their clients, usually by mail, private sale in small groups. In the US, the number of brands, Ralph Lauren Tory Burch, déstockent in factory outlets, something unthinkable in Europe. However, when it comes to their “normal” shops, these brands take care to implement the same places as Vuitton and others (Hilfiger on the Champs-Elysees, Michael Kors Rue Saint Honore …). They adopt the same codes (porter of the door, soft carpet) and also organize their shows with great pomp in Paris or New York. Positioning actually not that far from Maje, Sandro or Kooples.
And it works? Rather. Michael Kors, for example, hit the jackpot (the turnover happened between 2013 and 2014 from 2.2 to 3.3 billion) with its large logo bags, Tory Burch and Theory are no exception. A success that however relativized Elyette Roux: “Ultimately, if the mark is too scattered and the quality control is not assured, it risks losing its credibility. “US brands often more concerned with making profits than ensuring their sustainability, not elsewhere so interested the great French luxury groups LVMH and Kering prefer to steal the United States their talent for placement in their own pool (Humberto Leon and Carol Lim at Kenzo, Alexander Wang Balenciaga …).